Category Archives: Healdsburg

Woodenhead

What’s that saying about doing what you love and the rest will follow? I don’t know if they mean success or wealth will follow. But, that headstrong, renegade, roll up your sleeves, no bullshit attitude is what drives Woodenhead. The namesake is a nickname for the winemaker who may be the Steve Jobs of the wine biz for relentlessly crafting wines he loves and his ability to raise the bar for richly vibrant and wonderfully natural wines. He’s coined “Burgundian done California-style” to describe their unique profile based on the best of both old and new worlds.

His wines are also uniquely aged. Longer time in barrel and bottle gives them more complexity and personality. They are not only uniquely named but also have different colored labels so that return customers have an easier time picking out the ones they remember. Never leave the tasting room without getting a wet kiss.

Woodenhead

His Pinot Noirs are from all over the state and each beautifully represents those regions. They all have amazing typicity yet many different layers of earth, spice, and body based on their climate and soil. Their old vine Zinfandels are equally delicious with lightness in the body, layers of earth, tangy fruit, and longevity. Some wines may be high in alcohol but you wouldn’t taste it. All are unfined and unfiltered, which I realize is a term only wine geeks recognize but it really is the definition of a “natural wine” with few or no additives and will make vegetarians and vegans say “yeow, crack another one open!”


Mateo’s Cocina Latina

They will tell you it’s impossible to introduce an old town to a new cuisine. They will tell you to always praise the lard. They may even say Yucatan doesn’t fit in wine country. But they may drink those words.

Mateo’s opened a few years ago while locals doubted he could gain such a following here in Healdsburg. But Mateo stayed true his native Yucatan cuisine, replacing lard with olive oil in his Olive oil guacamole.  His tender juicy suckling pig tamales take that pronounced flavor another step toward ay caramba.

Suckling Pig Tamale

But the reason to drop by and stay a spell is the amazing collection of fine tequila and mescal. If you haven’t yet tried the delicious smoky goodness of mescal, you will wonder what took you so long.


West Wines

Some of the most straightforward wines are coming out of a pretty new producer on Dry Creek Road in Healdsburg. West Wines stands out in a corridor of Syrah and Zinfandel producers with their elegant European styled Bordeaux varietals.

A stainless steel Sauvignon Blanc begins their flight with straightforward crisp citrus flavors yet mellow grapefruit characteristics that can overwhelm this varietal. But their Cabernet Sauvignon is what stole the show. It is fermented 2 years in French oak barrels and bottle aged for another 3 years. The first thing you notice is its elegant plum characteristics blended with that soft supple eucalyptus fragrance. It finishes long after you’ve left the building with lots of pepper and a wonderful balance of fruit and body.

They are coming out with a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, which should be really interesting. Keep your eyes on this female winemaker doing things a little differently with a flair for European heritage.


Mueller Winery

Step around the corner from that overpriced shoe store or sweets shop in the Healdsburg Plaza and experience some well-rounded and beautifully crafted Burgundy style wines. Mueller Winery produces a handful of Chardonnay and Pinot Noirs as well as a wonderful Sauvignon Blanc and old vine Zinfandel. Their Sauvignon Blanc starts the tasting with a rich banana texture and slight crispness without the harsh grapefruit that is a hallmark of this grape. Their Chardonnay has much more body than tangy fruit flavors but a solid balance.

The Pinot Noirs that follow each have unique styles yet remain balanced an elegant, true to European style. The first has deep cherry with a long finish of earth and a hint of ash while the Eastside had a nose of spices such as nutmeg and cinnamon with softer cherry and a bit of pepper on the finish. Finally, the old vine Zinfandel had a truly unique personality. Either because it was planted in 1915 or because it was grown by a Pinot Noir producer, it has that earthy quality that is quintessential of Pinot but the delicious tart berry and plum that Zinfandel brings. It had great body with tight acidity. Definitely worth a trip to those who love Burgundy.


Stark Wine

You may be inspired to walk into the Stark Wine tasting room just to get a better look at the space. It looks like a designer studio with a beautifully decorated sidewalk patio. Some walk in thinking it is an art store in hopes that they can purchase the antique winemaking artifacts. But they are just part of the decor, although each tells a story and is locally hand crafted.

But stay a while for the wines. Their Chardonnay has amazing tangy green apple fruit flavor with a shimmer if white pepper and a long lingering finish. We will be back to try their Grenache Blanc from the Saarloos Vineyard in Santa Ynez. Their Primitivo gets its big tart cherry flavor from the Sierra Foothills with a leather mouth-feel and a hint of smoke on the finish.

Make sure you stop by on a Thursday night when they have live music and serve wines by the glass. Here’s what you can feast on until then:


Sanglier

Not only have Rhone blends arrived in downtown Healdsburg but a small family is running it, making it one you may not want to miss. A half block from the Plaza, Sanglier pours a dry rose that has the crisp refreshing strawberry flavors wrapped around melon with a blanket of minerality. Their white blend has a big rich nectarine body with a lemon meringue finish and a whiff of a bright garden with a hint of white pepper. I know sounds like a mouthful and it is.

Kick Ranch is the name of a vineyard you’ll certainly remember. Not because it is a kick but because of the warm elegant red wines that grow there. The Boar’s Camp has a body of dark berry and plum with tart cherry and cranberry characteristics before a soft supple finish of cocoa, coffee, and earth. Their Rouge du Tusque has lots of plum with an earthy leathery texture. A great finish!


Partake

We all know wines are better when paired with the right dish. The blends of sweet, salty, spicy, or sour flavors can play in your mouth in combination with the tart sweet or luscious body of the wine. But few demonstrate this as deliciously convincingly as Partake. They have so many interesting dishes on the menu that you must go back and try the ones you were too stuffed to attempt on your first visit. Each one had an amazing combination of flavors just right for each wine paired with it. Also, each one was uniquely different yet uniquely delicious. Finally, the whole filling meal cost me 38 bucks, including wine…lots of wine.

An initial beat in this rhythm of treats started with a blind tasting, which was a really fun way to begin a meal. The amuse bouche had the most succulent and tangy, salty, and rich blend of flavors in a single bite. Then, their slightly sweet Riesling was a crisp refreshing blend with the slightly spicy caramelized carrots, Guajillo Chile, Coconut and Pepita Brittle dish that came next. The sweetness of the carrots enhanced the slight curry and pepper flavors, which brought you back to the delicious body of the stone fruit in the Riesling. Pairings like this not only tantalize fascinated foodies, they surprise and amaze wine geeks. Somehow this chef got me more excited to eat my vegetables than my mother ever did. Sorry, mom but carrots are just cooler with curry!

Caramelized Carrots, Guajillo Chile, Coconut, Pepita Brittle

Next, the wine braised turnips dates, Parmesan with hazelnuts packed the smoky earthy crunch that the delicious Pinot Noir enhanced. It’s great blend of cherry, minerality, and a bit of earth made this Pinot fun to drink on its own as well.

Wine Braised Turnips, Dates, Parmesan, Hazelnuts

The fave finale was a pork bun made out of Syrah grape skins (yes, gluten free) with rich salty hoisin sauce and pickled cucumber to make your mouth water and clear your palate. Anything with vinegar makes your mouth water; that’s what all acids do. It went with a smoky styled Syrah that had a tiny bit of jam, making the sticky chewy buns with tender pulled pork the best ever tasted.

Syrah Grapeskin Flour Pork Buns, Hoisin, Quick Pickled Cucumber

If you are gluten free or not, your tummy will love you for eating this stuff! The staff makes you feel welcome and is very helpful with suggestions and inspiration. At the end of the meal, they make you feel like you’re a kid again at your neighbor’s birthday party when they send you home with a goody bag. I think this was a nutty brittle made out of the milled flour from grape skins. I don’t remember. But I remember it was delicious.

Partake Goodie Bag

This place also gets kudos for being a sustainable responsible winery, making additional products out of their vineyard byproducts. They not only make verjus, a tart grape juice made out of the half ripened grapes that you can replace with vinegar or lime juice in any recipe to enliven the flavors. But they also make gluten free flour by drying the grape skins and milling them into Riesling flour or dark red Syrah flour. They also sell these flours in the store with recipes for gluten free cookies, cakes, and other healthy dishes. Why eat wheat flour when there are flours with antioxidants and polyphenols with even better colors and textures!? That is geek talk for drink your words. They even make a Cabernet ketchup for their French fries! Definitely need to go back and try those!


C. Donatiello

New winery tasting rooms are opening in Healdsburg’s downtown plaza faster that Google maps can keep up with them. Currently, Google maps says there is a sparkling wine tasting room at the north east corner of the plaza. Yet, this is now the site of a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir producer called C. Donatiello. What’s great about this plush place is that you can do a flight of wines (white, red, or half and half) as well as buy glasses of wine.

If you like wines from Burgundy, this is the place for you to taste while in Healdsburg. A flight of Chardonnay covers the range of crisp tart lemon curd to rich crème brulee. They are all crafted like the greats from Burgundy to pair with big bold flavors or light country picnic food. Their Pinot Noirs cover the range of palates as well with haunting vanilla, cherry, and earth, through spices, and extra long finishes.


New Healdsburg Eats

You cannot leave a wine town in its prime for very long and expect it to remain as you remembered. Well, you can. But don’t be surprised at all the changes. Growth spurts abound during emerging growth years and just like a niece or nephew could look like a completely different person in a year, so could an unestablished wine town.

I lived here for 6 weeks exactly 12 months ago and returned to see many more establishments than expected in such a short period of time. Don’t think I’m back where I started because I ran out of new wine towns to cover. It is high season and I had to negotiate places to stay in the coming months. Healdsburg was just a favorite to call home for a spell.

I’ve only been back in Healdsburg for about 5 hours and already found some new favorite places to eat serving cuisine from far away:

  • The Parish Cafe – finally New Orleans grub right in downtown Healdsburg has arrived. They specialize in beignets and po-boys, which I haven’t tried yet. But the jambalaya, fried okra, and hush puppies sure hit the spot. They also do breakfast options with a twist until 11:30 AM.
  • Chalkboard – the name pretty much says it all; menu options changing so frequently inspired by local fresh ingredients they are more fitting for a chalkboard rather than a printed menu. Casual and contemporary dishes line the chalkboard with a bounty of options covering salads, pastas, seafood, and meats.
  • Shed – is so many things in one space you really just have to experience it. A coffee bar to start your day, café with delicious lunch options in an inviting picnic setting, a fermentation bar with local wine and beer on tap for magic hour, a shop that puts Sur La Table to shame, and workshops that aim to “revive the tradition and conviviality of the old grange halls” with the spirit of community.
  • Bravas – my favorite for its outside patio dining, creative cuisine and cocktails, and Giants game telecast. My words cannot help you enjoy this food but maybe your eyes can.

Zin Party

Another great meeting with Kathleen Kelley Young today! She made my mouth water with tales of her recent zin party. Tell me if this makes you wish you were there:

  • Braised beef short ribs (in zin reduction of course)
  • Polenta with butternut squash, fontina, and asiago
  • Chocolate zinfandel cake (don’t know how but without gluten)