Viognier is like the truffle oil of wines. It can easily overpower, weigh down, and leave an aftertaste. But that doesn’t mean it’s hopeless. It just means it needs the help of a crafty winemaker to blend it with its acidic friends to coax it into broader more elegant role.
The 2010 Spann Chardonnay-Viognier from Carneros has managed to tame the overpowering component yet still embrace the broad fruit flavors of apricot and peach. Its crisp acidity keep them in balance.